When heading to Newfoundland, the first thing you have to encounter is a ferry. There are two ferries from N. Sydney, Nova Scotia to Newfoundland. The ferry we took, yes motorhomes and all, was the shorter of the two which goes to Port Aux Basques. The other ferry goes to St. John's and is around 16 hours long. Our ferry was long enough at 6+hours. Our dogs had to stay in our motorhomes without any relief or visits from us. It was a long day, but all 4 of them handled it well and were extremely happy to see us all.
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| Bella |
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| Scamp |
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| Buster and Gracie |
After getting off of the ferry and finding a pit stop for the puppies, we had a short drive to our campground, Grand Codroy Campground. This is a cute little campground that at one time was a provincial park. A couple own the campground, and we found out the owner's father had originally donated the land for the provincial park. We spent a couple of nights there to allow us to decide what we were going to do and where we were going to drive. Unable to get reservations at the campground of choice in Gros Morne, we opted for a campground in Deer Lake, The Gateway to the North Campground. We ended up staying at this campground 3 different times since it truly was a gateway. It wasn't the nicest place we stayed, but it did serve its purpose.
While staying in Deer Lake, we explored the Gros Morne National Park. What a beautiful place. The first day we went to the first of 2 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, The Tablelands. We took a ranger guided walk and learned we were actually walking on the Earth's mantle, which is normally located between the inner core and the outer crust of the planet. This location in Gros Morne is one of the very few locations above the oceans where the mantle has pushed through the earth's surface. This location is where geologists decided to believe the plate tectonic theory. Great walk and great lessons. After our walk, we continued on to the little village of Trout River where we had lunch and saw more sites.
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| Yes that is snow in the background. |
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| Pat, Mike, and Chuck learning about the Tablelands |
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| Snow can actually get to these power lines and averages around 23 feet on the ground. |
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| Gives a different meaning to "on line shopping" |
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| Along the Boardwalk in Trout River |
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| Nice view during lunch |
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| Salt Cod |
The second day, Pat and Phyllis went to Corner Brook for a little retail therapy (and it was a little because we didn't find much), and Chuck got a slow leak in one of the car tires fixed. Nasty little nail. Mike being the more adventurous of the group climbed Gros Morne, which is the second highest peak in Newfoundland at 807 meters or 2,648 ft. I was impressed.
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| Gros Morne which Mike climbed. |
The last day in the area, we traveled further into the park for another part of the UNESCO site. This time we walked 3 km to get to the fresh water fjord at Western Brook Pond where we took a boat tour. These granite walls are 1.2 billion years old. Then we walked another 3 km back to the car. The pictures do the talking on this one:
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| Postcard perfect, but this is real |
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| The Walk |
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| Looks like a castle in the fog |
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| One of many waterfalls |
On to the northern part of Newfoundland and to St. Anthony. When the speed limit is
90 (km that is) and there is a big sign under the speed limit sign saying watch for potholes, you know the ride may be a bit rough. All of our backs suffered on this our longest drive, and when we
finally reached the Viking Campground we weren't too happy. The campground was in the middle of nowhere some distance from St. Anthony. Their electricity had been off the night before, and they had a boil water notice. After setting up we got into the car and drove to Triple Falls Campground which is nearer to St. Anthony to see if they had any sites. Luckily they did so we moved the next day.
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| Harp Seals on pak ice |
We all agree one of the highlights of our trip so far is the boat tour we took in St. Anthony to see whales, icebergs, and anything else. It was a great trip.
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| Humpback Whale eating along rocks |
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| Iceberg |
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| Not so good on selfies, but wanted proof I was on trip too |
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| Iceberg behind, Pat, Mike, & Chuck |
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| Harbor coming back in on boat tour |
Not only did we see whales on the boat, but when we went near the light house on Fish Point, we could see them right off shore. We saw many including humpbacks, minkes, and fins. Also saw dolphin. Wonderful.
Near the lighthouse is a Viking Feast hall. Chuck and Phyllis had to go to taste some traditional food (jigs dinner, cod throats, fish & brewis, moose stew, capelin, and partridge berry flat bread with bakeapple sauce), and to get Chuck back to his Norse roots. It was a fun evening.
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| Chuck with his "ancestors" |
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| Chuck as part of the entertainment |
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| Dinner was in this sod house. |
Next was the second UNESCO site, L'Anse aux Meadows, which is where the Norse became the 1st Europeans to reach North America more than 1000 years ago. We had a guided tour through the archeological site and visited with interpreters in period costumes. Another great highlight of the trip.
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| Archeological Site |
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| Chuck thinking about his heritage |
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| Phyllis near recreated sod house |
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| Interpreter inside sod house |
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| My Viking |
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| Honoring worlds meeting |
Our adventure in Newfoundland continued as we traveled back to Deer Lake and enjoyed the many villages along the harbors and roadways. We saw many stacks of firewood along the road. We found out that people get firewood from the Crown each year for around $25.00. They go cut the trees down during the winter and bring them to their wood stacking site along the roads. They cut the wood and leave it in the stacks to season. When asked if they worried about someone taking their wood, we were told there isn't any theft and if someone did take someone else's wood, the whole island would soon hear about it, and that person may as well just leave the island. No one would have anything to do with him. However they are a very caring and generous people and would gladly help anyone in need. The same is true of the small garden plots seen all along the highway. They grow turnips and potatoes mostly (the moose would get most anything else) and these plots randomly appear without a house in sight. It is truly like a step back in time to a much simpler way of life. We really enjoyed the people.
After overnighting in Deer Lake, we continued eastward to Gander. You may remember Gander as the spot where 43 of the planes landed when the air space was closed above the USA and Canada after 9/11. The people of Gander opened their homes, schools, refrigerators, etc. to help the many people from the planes. The population of Gander doubled in size during the few days the planes were grounded. It was amazing to read the letters and see news videos of the time at the North Atlantic Aviation Museum. A part of the steel from the Twin Towers was given to Gander to show appreciation for all they did and it is on display at the museum.
Gander also reached notoriety before, during, and after WWII. At one time, the Gander airport was the world's largest airport and that was before there were any highways there. This site was instrumental as a refueling point for planes being sent over to Europe. Planes couldn't make it without refueling here. After the war commercial planes stopped here to refuel on the way to Europe because they would rather have more paying customers then enough fuel to fly the whole way across the ocean. Quite a list of celebrities touched down in Gander. After the commercial flights were able to make it the whole way without refueling, the Eastern Bloc countries used Gander to refuel on their way to Cuba. While this caused some controversy, it was an economical must for Gander to survive. Interesting history here.
While staying in Gander, we day-tripped up to Twillingate. Once again we saw many villages and harbors. We went to the "most photographed lighthouse in Newfoundland" and bought fudge at the gift shop. Yep that was the best part. We went to a winery where the wine is all made from the many local berries. Some of the wine is also made from iceberg water. We did a wine tasting and bought wine.
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| View from observation area near lighthouse |
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| "Most photographed lighthouse" |
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| Mike and Chuck discussing the view |
The next night we had a wonderful double date night. We went out for a very nice dinner at the Bistro on Roe--ever hear of seared scallops with a blueberry sauce? Don't turn your nose up until you try it. Quite good. Then we went to a local theater for a performance of Noel Coward's Blythe Spirit. The actors were amazing and we all very much enjoyed the performance. How do they remember all of those lines? Many of the cast were simultaneously in another play that was presented on different nights.
The final trip back to Deer Lake for a couple of nights, a return to Grand Codroy for a night to prepare for our return ferry, and our Newfoundland adventure was coming to a close. After spending 19 days on the island, we were ready to leave but were thankful we did enjoy this adventure. Now the long ferry ride back.
Upon returning to Nova Scotia, we stayed at the North Sydney KOA. After having pizza at a favorite restaurant we found when here before, we went to the Arm of Gold campground to seek out our friends Phil and Karon. We were delighted to get to see them and do some catching up. They were leading a Fantasy caravan, and our paths just happened to cross. Such a small world we live in.
Well this blog ends with a little sad note. Tomorrow the "fab four" breaks up. Mike and Pat will begin their journey to Bar Harbor Maine where they will spend the next several weeks. Chuck and Phyllis will move on to Digby, NS and a couple of other stops before leaving Canada and beginning their way back home. It has been an amazing journey and our friendships have grown even stronger. Luckily before you know it we will all be back home together in Valencia Lakes.
